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I installed it on my iPhone and mated it to my Leica TL2.
Not yet ready for prime time. It does connect very easily, a big improvement over the old and very fussy
TL iPhone App. But the new Fotos App. also disconnects when not intended, requiring new acquisition. I realize it is a Beta version, but I think you ought to contact Fotos and tell them that the App has this problem.

For what it's worth, I've been beta testing the Foto app for about 10 minutes and it has frozen my M10 twice. I had to pull the battery to restart. Let's just say that it's not ready for the masses.

Hi, I've just bought my CL and downloaded the Fotos PRO app but I cannot get it to capture using the remote. I can adjust some basic settings but when I touch the button to take the shot nothiing happens. Not impressed at all with the app. Anybody any ideas if I'm doing something wrong. Thanks.

Oliver, it was 3 seconds and is now 10. I have fixed the article. Thank you for pointing that out! I never use this mode (easier to carry a spare battery or two) so I was not too familiar with how it operated in 3.2. I'll have to try the Shutter Pressed option in the EVF-only mode tomorrow, so I will get back to you on that.

Hans-Dieter, firmware 3.3 is compatible only with the FOTOS app which is being released later this month. Until that comes out, you cannot use the camera's WiFi with the old app, as far as I know!

How does Leica recommend to tether the M10-P to a desktop computer?

I saw the connector when I looked at the camera in the Leica store. It's hidden under that stuck down panel with the SD Card icon/graphic. On the demo model I looked at, that small panel had been removed.

I enjoyed reading this. I particularly like the rich saturated colors. I have a CL and the M-to-L adapter but have not tried any M glass yet. Maybe a 21 M lens is in my future.

Jeff, I think that's one of my favorite things to do with the CL as well – experimenting with vintage M glass can be fun especially with the crop factor making a 50mm f/1.4 the perfect portrait lens!

Merv, thanks for the great feedback! You definitely should give some of the CL prime lenses a try – especially the 35 f/1.4 and 60 f/2.8. They are stunning and I would say as sharp as any M lens I've used. I find the autofocus fast enough for most things personally. I also just use a center point focus spot and recompose as needed, which I find to be the fastest approach. And of course always make sure your CL is updated to the latest firmware for best performance.

Just about every image that is posted on the site has been shot in DNG and edited in Lightroom. The CL is a great camera, but ultimately, to get the best looking images, shooting in DNG is the preferred method. To help get most of the way there, I did publish a suite of Lightroom presets for every Leica digital camera. You can check that out here: Lightroom Presets for Leica Cameras

The CL has no way of knowing what aperture you've set on an M lens as this is completely mechanical with no electronic relay at all. The digital M cameras feature a secondary light meter above the lens to approximate the aperture value when measured against the ISO and shutter speed value for the recorded picture. Sometimes it's fairly accurate, but other times varies considerably, depending on the scene. As there is no secondary meter on the CL, the camera cannot make the same estimate. So, the CL will not record any value for the aperture in the image EXIF data.

The CL EVF will auto-gain so what you see is what you get. When setting f-stop on an M lens, the aperture is changing in real time. So while the overall amount of light is decreasing when stopping down, the camera will gain up the image so that the resulting exposure is still accurately shown. When opening up, the viewfinder will gain down. The experience works very well and is largely seamless.

The CL has no way of knowing what aperture you’ve set on an M lens as this is completely mechanical with no electronic relay at all. The digital M cameras feature a secondary light meter above the lens to approximate the aperture value when measured against the ISO and shutter speed value for the recorded picture. Sometimes it’s fairly accurate, but other times varies considerably, depending on the scene.