@david-farkas
active 1 year, 5 months agoForum Replies Created
Townsend, VT
Leica S2 with 70mm, 1/500th @ f/8, ISO 160
Leica S2 with 35mm, 1/15th @ f/13, ISO 160, Schneider 0.9 Soft Grad ND, Tripod
Leica S2 with 120mm, 1/45th @ f/8, ISO 160, Tripod
Leica S2 with 120mm, 1/125th @ f/8, ISO 160, TripodGrafton, VT
Leica S2 with 70mm, 1/15th @ f/13, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Tripod
Leica S2 with 70mm, 1/15th @ f/13, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Tripod
Leica S2 with 35mm, 1/45th @ f/13, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Tripod
Leica S2 with 70mm, 1/30th @ f/13, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, TripodDeland Cemetary, Manchester, VT
Leica S2 with 70mm, 1/30th @ f/13, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Tripod
Leica S2 with 35mm, 1/45th @ f/13, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Tripod
Leica S2 with 180mm, 1/125th @ f/8, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, TripodKent Pond, Killington, VT
Leica S2 with 180mm, 60 sec @ f/8, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Schneider 0.9 Hard Grad ND, TripodDavid Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiPete Walentin;882 wrote: Hi David,
I've used the Kaesmann Circular Polarizer MRC 82mm back in my Canon days with the UW lenses. That works fine for me as well. I have not used them on the S2. I was a little bit unsure about their effect. At all I am not a big fan of filters. 😉
What I have used on the S2 are Cokin Filters. But they attract dust which makes them not very attractive to me. It feels like I always have to clean them but I never get them as clean as I would like to have them. 😉 On top of that I do like to make “my photography” as simple as possible. One of the reasons I switched to the S2.But it looks like the Cokin Filters have the same size 4×4 and 4×6 as the Schneider Filters so I could use my adapter and try the Schneider Filters. So thanks for the tip.
Pete,
I used the Hi-Tec resin filters and had the same issue. Micro surface cleaning scratches no matter how careful I was in cleaning and dust that never seemed to go away. In dry climates the resin filters hold a static charge and become dust magnets. Once I went with the optical glass filters…. wow. All of those problems were a thing of the past. They don't get dusty at all and are as easy to clean as a lens or other glass filter. And, perhaps more importantly, they do not detract from the quality of the image as I felt the resin filters did.
You will not be able to use your existing Cokin holder, though. The glass filters are 4mm thick vs. 2mm thick for the resin ones. Schneider modifies the Lee holder with two 4mm slots, which have individual thumb screws for locking the filters in place. The glass filters are heavier and could slide through if tension isn't applied.
Looking at technical data from the shots I've posted, you'll see that these filters were invaluable for easily getting the shot. Not one image posted is an HDR merge. They are all single shot exposures (except for the one pano of the waterfall).
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiPete Walentin;874 wrote: Really like the first one. With the roof of the barn complementing the foliage colors.
David, what is your experience in loosing IQ when using a Circular Polarizer? Which one do you use? Is there any, if at all, which is delivering the best results?
Thanks,
PeteP.S. Also like the Pano.
Pete,
I use the B+W F-Pro Kaesmann Circular Polarizer MRC. I've found no loss of quality when using the filter. Additionally, many of these shots were done with a polarizer and a 3-stop graduated ND and a solid 4-stop ND. The Schneider glass filters are second to none, especially when compared with resin filters. They don't scratch or attract dust, are easy to clean and have no negative effect on image quality.
Thanks for the feedback. Happy to discuss technique.
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiHere's another one from Moss Glenn Falls. It's a four-shot pano stitch with the 35mm. Image size is about 82MP (12,000 x 6,000 px).
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiPete,
These are really powerful images. I especially like the first one. The symmetry is just perfect and really works here, with the arch framing the cross.
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiCam,
Beautiful shots!
Regarding your question, I usually upload images which are 1800px on the long side, quality level 90 out of LR.
Love to see more images.
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiA few of my shots from our first day….
Mirror Lake in Woodstock, NH
Leica S2 with 35mm, 1/30th @ f/11, ISO 160, Schneider 0.9 Soft Grad ND, Tripod
Leica S2 with 180mm, 1/4th @ f/11, ISO 160, Schneider 0.9 Soft Grad ND, Tripod
Leica S2 with 120mm, 1/30th @ f/4, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Tripod
Leica S2 with 120mm, 1/45th @ f/3.4, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Schneider 0.9 Soft Grad ND, TripodFraconia Notch, NH
Leica S2 with 180mm, 1/90th @ f/5.6, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Tripod
Leica S2 with 35mm, 1/4th @ f/11, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Schneider 0.9 Hard Grad ND, Tripod
Leica S2 with 180mm, 1/30th @ f/11, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Schneider 0.9 Soft Grad ND, Tripod
Leica S2 with 180mm, 0.7 sec @ f/13, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Schneider 0.9 Soft Grad ND, TripodCrawford's Notch, NH
Leica S2 with 180mm, 6 sec @ f/6.8, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Schneider 0.9 Soft Grad ND, Tripod
Leica S2 with 180mm, 6 sec @ f/11, ISO 160, B+W Circular Polarizer, Tripod
Mount Washington Resort, Bretton Woods, NH
Leica S2 with 120mm, 1/500th @ f/2.5, ISO 160David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiJoe;771 wrote: I was recently able to use my iPad 2 as a viewing monitor of S2 images in the field. I thought you might have an interest in the process if you have an iPad 2. Here are some thoughts that I shared with David recently.
David,
Here are some links describing the iPad 2 to S2 set up process. As mentioned in the links, I have the Aluratek portable router, the ShutterSnitch iPad app and the EyeFi X2 Pro SD card. I was fortunate to have a couple of friends who are quite technical, so they set up the router for me. I'm sure you will be fine with setting it up. It works beautifully and it is a joy to see the S2 images on the iPad 2. The images arrive on the iPad in about 15 secs … very cool! I've been out shooting with it the past few days and it is great to work with. I normally will do a 3 stop exposure bracket (love the new S2 firmware) for landscape shots, and in no time, all three shots show up on the iPad. I can get a good feel for composition, sharpness and shadow and highlights areas … very sweet! I don't have to rely on the camera LCD screen to view images and of course all the touch features of the iPad work for zooming, etc. You can select a photo, then email it if you are so inclined. Great for keeping Art Directors in the loop.
Overview
Set up info
On another note, I think we had a conversation recently about my interest in finding a good small monitor for seeing images on the road, in lieu of a laptop ( I have this crazy idea about using the new Mac Mini on the road). Well, it turns out, I already have one, the iPad! It is a beautiful monitor to see images on and it is indeed portable (Mac Mini is a bit awkward, although it only weights 2.7lbs … well, let's just call it … luggable). To make it work, you need an app called Air Display. It is pretty cool, it allows you to setup your iPad as a second monitor ( I would use it as the main monitor with the Mini). So using it with your laptop or desktop for some additional screen real estate makes it a very practical app. Here is a link for the app, costs about $10.00, check it out when you get a moment:
http://avatron.com/apps/air-display/
One more thing, I found another iPad 2 app that I'm keen on, it's called Viewfinder Pro. I'm just now trying it out and I think it will be very helpful in the field when framing landscape photos. It is compatible with Leica S2 lenses and it allows you to frame a scene using your iPad, displaying the appropriate viewing angle for each of the S2 lenses, in my case all 4 of the current S2 lenses. I normally carry a mat board with a cutout in it to frame a scene, but now I'm able to see it with the proper S2 lens perspective before I break out the camera and begin to try out different lenses. The app will also support up to 4 cameras, so if you have the M9, and others, it would be useful with the M9 as well. Anyway here it is, costs about $17.00, let me know what you think of it:
http://direstudio.com/viewfinder
The other way of seeing S2 images that I'm investigating, is to use the Barnes and Noble Nook to see the S2 file. My tech friends tell me the Nook can be ‘rooted', to allow an Android app to run on it. Do you happen to know of any Android tablet photo apps? The Nook has a matted screen, is light weight and small in size, plus it is in B&W, so for my use it would be perfect. I don't know the image quality of the Nook or speed to display images, so it may not be practical, but I'll definitely pursue it use as a viewer if I can find an app.
Hope this helps 🙂
Joe,
I can't wait to see your setup in a few days. I'm sure you will be the envy of everyone on the trip.
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiJack MacD;775 wrote: Roger,
After telling you to do a test, I decided I should also. Especially after David expressed a bit of surprise that I would be going on his fall trip with such a light tripod as the Gitzo#2
Maybe if I had a 180mm I would go for the #3.I merely did an 8 second test shot of a star on a very heavy tripod that I would never hike with followed by the same shot with the Gitzo #2, also shot with a two second delay that flips the mirror first , and then a third shot on the #2 with no two second delay, merely pressing the shutter release directly. This is with a 120mm. The three insert enlargements are 6 times the full field shot that is the background. Without using the 2 second delay in the third shot, I can see a slight very slight wiggle in the middle of the tiny star trails.
A tribute to the damping of the S2, the differences are hard to detect. I feel I am safe with the #2 when using the 2 second delay.
JackInteresting test, Jack. Thanks for taking the time to carry it out and share the results.
You may want to see what happens at around 1/8th – 1/30th. This range tends to be the “danger zone” for mirror/shutter vibration (not just in the S2, but in SLR cameras in general). With a very long exposure of 8 seconds, any initial movement represents such a small fraction of the overall exposure time. Of course, when photographing stars, too long an exposure and you get trails (which is great it that is the intention, just not as good for testing camera movement).
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiFull review is up in the News and Articles section:
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store Miamihikemate;752 wrote: Hi Dave I love the forum.
Thanks!
What kind of how-to's are you looking for?
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiRoger;740 wrote: Thanks David . The series 3 size with a good ball head (RRS,ARCA etc) seems like the right size but I was reacting to the article on LL where the author swears we will be giving away some necessary stability.
Maybe with a 645DF. 😀 The S2 has an extremely well-dampened mirror and an almost-vibration-free shutter.
I've used the S2 on a 1-series GT1541 (but no wind), a 2-series GT2541 and even a Leica table-top tripod at a variety of shutter speeds from 32 seconds to 1/500th. The resulting images are all sharp. I chose the GT3541XLS because it is even more stable than the much smaller ones, has almost imperceptible torsion flex and a much better height range.
This image was shot with a GT2541 and GH2780 head. 2 sec self timer. No cable release. On sand, with a stiff breeze and sea spray. It's sharp.
Here's one from the S2 on the Leica table-top tripod and Leica ball head, propped on a dock pylon:
Don't get me wrong. For the New England trip where 90%+ of my work will be on a tripod, I will be donning the GT3541XLS. These other examples were from predominantly walk-around travel shoots where 90% of my work was hand-held and with a 70mm. In these cases I prefer a small tripod that I can carry with me if needed, but I am not depending on for the overall success of the shoot. I also didn't need to support the extra weight and and narrower angle of view of the 120 or 180. This is another factor to consider.
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiRoger;738 wrote: I know to extract the most out of the S2 that a heavy tripod is recommended. Looking at the latest article on Luminous Landscape and David s post on the Telyt conversion …both seem to be using a GITZO 5 series . I have one but use it with a Gimbel head for long lenses .
The series 5 GITZO is as solid as I ve seen but wow …..will I really drag this baby on a shooting trip that includes air travel? I also have a 3 series GITZO which is really quite portable .
What combinations are the other S2 owners using and what are they recommending ? What head are you using and have you sprung for the CUBE?
Roger,
I used the Gitzo 5 Series CF Systematic just because of the size and weight of the 400mm APO-Telyt + S2 combo (around 12 lbs) and my desire to cancel out any possible vibrations. I did take it in the field with me for testing locally, but not sure I'd want to do any airline travel with it.
For almost all of my shooting with the S2 and S lenses, I use the Gitzo GT3541XLS with a Gitzo GH3780 head. I've also recently adopted the RRS L-bracket and paired it with a RRS B2 LLR II quick release clamp. I use this either right on top of the Gitzo head or also use a Gitzo GS3750D panning adapter in between the two.
The GT3541 extends to 78″ tall without a column, folds down to 27″ and can still get as low as 4″ off the ground. The tripod will hold up to 40 lbs and only weighs 4.3 lbs. Relatively portable for travel and still an extremely stable and flexible platform.
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store Miamimadmanchan;732 wrote: You can use high Detail amounts (even 100) with S2 files, but please do so carefully. High Detail means ACR/Lr will do its best to extract every ounce of detail & texture available in the file. This is almost always undesirable for portraits or perhaps even general-purpose use where a smoother result is preferred. But for extremely fine detail (pixel-sized features like blades of grass, twigs, leaves, etc.) and texture + low ISO cases, a high Detail setting can be appropriate and highly effective. For such scenarios I also suggest reducing the Radius setting from its default value of 1, to something like 0.5 or 0.6.
Eric Chan
Camera Raw EngineerEric,
Welcome to Red Dot Forum and thanks so much for posting!
I am curious about the relationship between radius and sharpening amount. For high detail scenarios, where you suggest reducing the radius to 0.5 or 0.6 (I use 0.8 by default), would you turn up the sharpening amount as well?
Thanks again for chiming in.
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store Miami
