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The 70mm works just fine Mark 🙂

stephan;1272 wrote: yes, this is how I use them with the m9, works pretty well for studio. (pw in basic trigger combined with a sekonic DR)

But I like to use sometimes just a bit “fill-in” flash in TTL “on the fly” (mostly with exposure correction to -0.7 – – 1.5) which works very well with Nikon. How to do that with the S2? Also in AA-mode?…

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Pete

I use Helicon a lot. I have never used 28 images to stack. I usually max at 8.

I presume you were on a tripod and rail. If not you have no real chance. S2 files give the programme a headache at the best of times.

My favoured approach at the moment is not to change the focal plane directly but to move the camera on the…[Read more]

I agree. I would love to have the 120mm.

Well done David. Samantha is a terrific model. The 120mm is perfectly suited for this type of photography and therefore, the CS version would be ideal. It's a good thing I don't do this type of photography because I would have to buy a 120mm CS.

Yes, SB900s will only work in AA or M mode on the S2. You can trigger them on PW FlexTT5s, but you will need to set the Pocket Wizards into Basic Trigger Mode using the computer utility.

yes, this is how I use them with the m9, works pretty well for studio. (pw in basic trigger combined with a sekonic DR)

But I like to use sometimes…[Read more]

rgk;1267 wrote: There is another reason not to read or possess the SF 58 manual. It is too heavy and wildly overpriced based on weight. The SF 58 manual weighs 14.3 oz. The S2 manual weighs 7.8 oz. For the price of an S2, we should have received a really heavy manual. The numbers get worse when one applies this test to lens manuals.

That is…[Read more]

The advantage of CS lenses is only relevant when shooting with lights…you get a faster sync speed…1/500th vs 1/125th for non CS lenses. So if you're just shooting with available light stick with the non CS lenses. But if you shoot with lights the faster sync speed will allow the use of wider apertures with accompanying shallower DOF. David…[Read more]

My demographic as a denizen of the rural south explains why I am asking this question. What is benefit of a CS lens to an outside bright light handholding S2 shooter? Does your answer change when shooting flowers and/or bumblebees with the S2 and 120mm on a tripod?

Thanks for your answers.

fotografz;1218 wrote: Excuse the interruption of the love fest … but what happened to the 30 T/S?

I bought into the projected lens line-up, and while the 35 fits my shooting needs, I had also planned on the 30T/S even though close in FOV to the 35mm for all practical purposes, because the T/S would have brought a completely different…

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There is another reason not to read or possess the SF 58 manual. It is too heavy and wildly overpriced based on weight. The SF 58 manual weighs 14.3 oz. The S2 manual weighs 7.8 oz. For the price of an S2, we should have received a really heavy manual. The numbers get worse when one applies this test to lens manuals.

stephan;1262 wrote: is anyone using a Nikon SB900 with good results on the S2?

I have a lot of SB900 that I use (mostly) with pocketwizzards and want to use them again with the S2 as well. Of course, TTL would be great, but I think only A-mode is possible, right?

Yes, SB900s will only work in AA or M mode on the S2. You can trigger them…[Read more]

I set the clipping warning limits in firmware to something more conservative like 5 and 250 just to give me a clue when I am close to the limits. Sometimes, this is too conservative and I blow the limits intentionally. The highlight limits are the most difficult to control in my opinion.

I don't know if a histogram based on the raw image…[Read more]

is anyone using a Nikon SB900 with good results on the S2?

I have a lot of SB900 that I use (mostly) with pocketwizzards and want to use them again with the S2 as well. Of course, TTL would be great, but I think only A-mode is possible, right?

Nice! 🙂

Ok, thank you for the explanation. I am not trying to say you or allegretto's suggestions are not valid, I was just trying to understand them, as I could not see any reason why they would be needed. For example, deleting an image is not something I would ever worry about…conversely, I would rather have the test shot on the card just in case the…[Read more]

Stuart Richardson;1253 wrote: Why wouldn't you just take a photo and then delete it? It seems like it would accomplish the same thing, only without any buttons or special features.

Stuart,
The whole point of this would be to avoid having to delete images, either from the card or from hard disk after import. A new button would not be…[Read more]

Stuart Richardson;1253 wrote: Why wouldn't you just take a photo and then delete it? It seems like it would accomplish the same thing, only without any buttons or special features.

As for a true RAW histogram, have you seen any deficiency in the regular histogram that makes this necessary? I am curious to hear about any particular issues,…

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Your point on time consuming PS work was driven home to me when a relative asked me to “convert” a 2×3 into a 4×5 ratio by adding information into the ceiling and floor of a church. Just make your second shooters do that exercise once, and they will shoot looser.
While waiting for the 24mm I am continuing to do PS merges.

I appreciate your point of view Marc. It's good to know I am not the only that has issues with the standard print/frame sizes.

Back in my Canon 5D days I got a Brightscreen split image focusing screen with 8×10 crop lines to help me compose properly for the print. It was very frustrating every time I looked through the viewfinder and saw how…[Read more]